The Camino via Pontevedra

There are many pilgrim paths to Santiago de Compostela; however, there is only one route through Pontevedra, Spain. I chose to walk the central route of the Camino Portugués for this exact reason. As a resident of Ponte Vedra, Florida, learning about my city’s namesake in Spain turned out to be a rewarding opportunity.

The Way of St. James, the Camino de Santiago or simply the Camino, is a network of pilgrimage routes all leading to the tomb of the apostle St. James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. More than 400,000 people last year completed the journey. Since the movie “The Way” starring Martin Sheen premiered in 2010, it has become more popular with Americans.

The Camino Portugués is a different and shorter route than the more popular Camino Francés. Some people start the Camino Portugués in Lisbon, Portugal; however, the early going of that 400-mile journey is not very picturesque.

Alternatively, most start further north in Porto, Portugal, as I did, shortening the route to about 160 miles. You pass through Pontevedra, Spain, about three days prior to ending in Santiago de Compostela.

Getting the vibe

My personal route would be unconventional. I flew into Lisbon and decided it was important to acclimate myself to the culture versus starting to walk the Camino immediately.

As a historian, I found the ancient town of Tomar, Portugal, the most alluring introduction. After a short bus ride to Tomar, I took my first photo at the city sign with the Castle of the Knights Templar on the hill in the background. This really felt like old Europe, and I was thrilled to traverse the city with my backpack seeing the sites.

I enjoyed this style of immersion, so I decided to repeat the process further north in Coimbra, Portugal. Carrying my gear on a self-guided familiarization tour was like a Camino dress rehearsal. I decided to take breaks whenever a church was along my path, entering respectfully to say a prayer.

There is an exciting vibe in Coimbra given it is the home of the oldest academic institution in Portugal, the University of Coimbra, which dates back to 1290. I spent a day touring the university buildings and was enthralled by the splendor of the ancient Joanina Library. Apparently at the old Academic Prison, the longest sentence ever handed out was for destroying a book.

I spotted a tower in the courtyard and wondered how I could get to the top. Turns out, it is not always open and is not part of the regular ticket. For an extra Euro ($1.10 US) on my ticket, I learned it was possible. The circular stairwell was narrow with only one person at a time allowed on the 112-foot climb. The view was certainly well worth the price of admission.

Up until this point, I stayed at inexpensive hostels, which I booked last-minute using the popular Booking.com app. A big part of my Camino education would come from the pilgrims who had already started their journey. I knew they would be staying at these same hostels while making their way north by foot. For the price of a beer or two, I would hear the good, the bad and the ugly from these experienced travelers.

LEER MÁS…

FUENTE: PONTEVEDRA RECORDER