STAGE 1 OF THE FRENCH ROAD: SAINT-JEAN-PIED-DE-PORT → RONCESVALLES (24 KM)
The stage where you discover that the Pyrenees don't climb: they adopt you.
✨ Before we start…
Leaving Saint-Jean early in the morning has a special charm. Although the town is full of pilgrims, there is an almost ceremonial silence, as if the Camino itself were waiting for you to take your first step.
The air smells of freshly baked bread, damp grass and that particular nervousness that you only feel before a long adventure.
It is an intimate moment: you adjust your backpack, you do a final check of everything, you look towards the Porte Saint-Jacques... and you see the Pyrenees greeting you from the horizon.
That's when you think:
“Okay, I'm in. The Camino begins.”
🥾 DETAILED DESCRIPTION + PLACES NOT TO BE MISSED + WHERE TO EAT + WHERE TO SLEEP
🟩 1. SAINT-JEAN-PIED-DE-PORT – The charming start (km 0)
Saint-Jean is not just the starting point: it is a small world made for pilgrims. It doesn't matter if you arrive the previous afternoon or that same morning, it always feels like all the roads in the town lead to the Camino de Santiago.
The cobblestone streets are full of life, but without noise. Their energy is different: a mix of emotion, respect and camaraderie. Everywhere you look you see backpacks, shells, maps, cafes, bakeries... it's the perfect environment to start.
⭐ Sites not to be missed
- Porte Saint-Jacques: medieval door and official exit. Crossing it is imposing.
- Rue de la Citadelle: one of the most beautiful streets on the entire Camino.
- Walls and viewpoints: from above you see the valley that you are going to leave behind when you go up.
🍽️ Where to eat or have breakfast
- Le Café du Pèlerin – Breakfast and very pilgrim atmosphere.
- Cafe Ttipia – Ideal to start the day calmly.
- Local bakeries – Perfect for bringing pastries and a sandwich.
🛌 Where to sleep
If you arrive the day before, these options are ideal:
- Auberge du Pelerin – Social, very good atmosphere.
- Gîte Makila – Cozy and central.
- Gîte de la Porte St-Jacques – One step from the beginning.
- Hostellerie des Remparts – To sleep more comfortably.
🟦 2. SAINT-JEAN → HUNTTO (km 5) – The stage where the legs wake up
As soon as you leave the town center, the Camino begins to gain altitude. It is not a hard climb, but it is constant, as if the mountain wanted to warn you that today will not be a walk.
As you move forward, you begin to hear more wind than conversations, and you see Saint-Jean become smaller behind you. You pass French hamlets, impeccable green meadows and animals that seem to know more about the Camino than you.
Cows, in particular, look at you with a perfect mix of calm and quiet judgment. They don't say anything, but we all know what they think.
⭐ Sites not to be missed
- Looks back to the valley – You can see how the town stays under your feet.
- Pyrenean meadows that introduce you to a completely different environment.
🍽️ Eat
There are no services until Orisson, so what you bring is what you get.
🛌 Sleep in Huntto
Ideal if you want to split the stage into two:
- Ferme Ithurburia (Huntto Hostel) – Excellent food, familiar and with brutal views.
🟪 3. ORISSON (km 8) – The pilgrim's oasis (and sports confessional)
Arriving at Orisson is like reaching the first real rest of the Camino.
First you hear the voices from afar, then you see the terrace, then you see yourself dropping into a chair.
Something curious happens here: pilgrims from all over the world talk as if they have known each other all their lives.
It is where you hear famous phrases like:
“I trained, but… I didn't see this coming”
o
“I thought Orisson was closer.”
⭐ Sites not to be missed
- Orisson Terrace – The most beautiful photos of the day.
- The Camino sign – Icon for the mandatory photo.
🍽️ Eat
- Auberge d'Orisson – Sandwiches, soups, cold drinks and coffee. Very complete.
🛌 Sleep
Perfect if you want to divide the hard day into two days:
- Auberge d'Orisson – Requires reservation well in advance.
🟧 4. ORISSON → BENTARTEA (km 12–14) – The serious climb
From here the slope becomes more intense.
The landscape begins to open up and become spectacular: gentle mountains, constant wind, soaring eagles and a feeling of total silence that is only interrupted by the walking sticks hitting the ground.
Each curve seems to tell you: “A little more, almost there.”
And every time you look back, France looks impressive.
⭐ Sites not to be missed
- Fontaine de Roland – Last source before Spain.
- Natural viewpoints – Visual treat on clear days.
🍽️ Eat
There are no bars. Whatever you bring, that's what you eat.
🛌 Sleep
There is no accommodation in this area.
🟥 5. ALTIPLANO AND BORDER (km 15–20) – The Camino in its purest form
This is, for many, the most spiritual part of the day.
There are no houses, there is no noise, there is nothing... except mountains, sky and your own rhythm.
The feeling of smallness and freedom is difficult to describe.
Here you can go from sun to wind and from wind to fog in 15 minutes.
Welcome to the Pyrenees.
⭐ Sites not to be missed
- Lepoeder cabbage – Highest point of the French Way.
- Views towards Navarra – Simply unforgettable if it is clear.
- medieval cross – Historic step towards Spain.
🍽️ Eat
Perfect spot for an impromptu lunch with epic views.
🛌 Sleep
There is no accommodation until Roncesvalles.
🟩 6. DESCENT TO RONCESVALLES – The knees make decisions
After so much going up, it's time to go down.
Here you have two options:
✔️ Forest route (recommended)
Longer but softer. Your knees will thank you.
✔️ Classic route through the forest
Beautiful, yes.
Slippery too.
Especially after rain.
⭐ Sites not to be missed
- Alto de Ibañeta Viewpoint
- Hermitage of San Salvador de Ibañeta
🍽️ Eat
Only when you get to the end of the day.
🛌 Sleep
Only in Roncesvalles.
🏁 7. RONCESVALLES – Epic end of the day
Getting here is a mix of relief and victory.
The monastery stands between forests and meadows, and the feeling upon entering the premises is one of authentic rest.
⭐ Sites not to be missed
- Royal Collegiate Church
- Gothic cloister
- Church of Santiago
- Charlemagne Silo
🍽️ Eat
- Inn Restaurant – Strong pilgrim menu.
- Hotel Roncesvalles – More elaborate cuisine.
- Hostel Bar – Economical and sufficient.
🛌 Sleep
- Roncesvalles hostel (municipal) – Large, clean and organized.
- Roncesvalles Inn – Comfortable rooms.
- Hotel Roncesvalles – To reward you after the Pyrenees.
🎒 PRACTICAL TIPS
- Start early.
- The weather changes fast: check the forecast.
- Use canes.
- Eat every little bit.
- Walk without haste: it is a stage to live.
😂 FINAL SUMMARY
“I went up, I thought I was done, but the mountain said no.
A cow with a better face than me passed me.
I arrived in Roncesvalles half melted but happy.
And while I was eating dinner I thought:
'Well, I'll continue tomorrow.'
And that's it: officially hooked on the Camino.”
And when I arrived at Roncesvalles, I thought:
What if tomorrow I make another one?
And this is how the pilgrim addiction begins.”
